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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.